ETHICS AND FATE
NOW Bali, Jan./Feb. Issue, 2023
As the son of a Balinese priest, I Made Suryasa developed a keen interest in Bali’s sacred and religious fields from a young age. He learned to read the old Javanese language, Kawi, as well as Sanskrit, both used in ancient texts. Thus, he became a senior research assistant for several scholarly books, has been a contributor to Hinduism Today, and studied with one of Bali’s most renowned healers for 15 years.
“Balinese healing is complex,” he says. “Visiting the wrong type of balian can lead to some serious disappointment.” Pak Surya, as he is better known, has led traditional healing journeys to Bali since 1986, helping visitors find the right path based on their ailments. His fluent command of Balinese, English and Indonesian has helped to facilitate these more clandestine circles. Importantly, he is selective in the balians he takes his guests to.
“Balians are traditional doctors, and like doctors there is a code of ethics in their practice,” says Pak Surya. “For many balians, it is a calling they must answer. Many come from average backgrounds — farmers, guides, accountants — and many enjoyed their previous life, sometimes more. So learning the ethics of their ‘gift’ is most important. It’s about training the intention. Power in the wrong hands can become a weapon.”
He isn’t wrong. There are balian panengen, good balian, and the balian pangiwa, the ‘bad’ balian. The latter are referred to as those who have veered off path and whose services involve sending sicknesses rather than curing them.
There are some worries. Having worked within the field for a long time, Pak Surya has seen many of his old friends pass on to the next world. Those left are ageing, and the younger generation seem to lack the patience to become respected balian.
Instead, many Balinese have adopted new-age practices to appeal to the growing demand for wellness in Bali, an industry in which everything from kundalini awakening and cacao ceremonies and breathwork can be found. Bali’s healing ‘brand’ has certainly helped to promote these experiences, but many of these are foreign influences, sadly overshadowing what is considered ‘real’ Balinese healing.
Practical notes on visiting a balian:
This is best done with a facilitator, such as I Made Suryasa. Some balians are only available on certain days (Jero Balian Wayan is visited on ‘hari kliwon’ after 4pm). We recommend dressing appropriately (sarong and sash) out of respect, and it is customary to present a donation at the end of consultation, placed on a canang sari offering.
The 25 Travel Experiences You Must Have
On November 17,2022 the New York Times posted
A pair of internationally minded writers, a chef, an architect and a landscape photographer made a list of the most extraordinary adventures a person should seek out. Here are the results.
By Alwa Cooper, Ashlea Halpern, Debra Kamin, Aileen Kwun, Miguel Morales, Dan Piepenbring and Michael Snyder
One July morning, a five-person jury — including the writers Pico Iyer and Aatish Taseer, the architect Toshiko Mori, the chef and food scientist David Zilber and the landscape photographer Victoria Sambunaris — gathered over Zoom to debate what, exactly, constitutes a “travel experience” and how some might rise above the rest. To get the conversation started, each panelist had nominated at least 10 selections in advance of the call; their job now was to slash that list from 55 to 25.
Here is what they wrote about Ntounias, and as a result, we have decided to include a lunch visit to our 2023 Greek Islands itinerary:
Savor an Unforgettable Lunch at Ntounias in Western Crete
Stelios Trilyrakis, the chef behind Ntounias in Crete, pats one of his heritage cows, a rare Cretan species called Gidomouskara.
Credit... SteMajourneys
A typical lunch spread might include a seasonal salad, bread baked in a wood oven, homemade cheese and manaroli, a type of Cretan bean stew.
It takes a 45-minute drive from Chania, Crete, through the Greek island’s White Mountains to reach this mecca of homespun cooking in Drakona.
Through scenic Therrisos Gorge, with occasional stops for sheep crossings, the journey is best made with the windows down, cooled by the hillside breeze and dazzled by the sun winking across limestone mountain caps. Expect a warm greeting upon arrival — the view from the terrace of the valley below will make up for any bumps in the rugged and twisty road — but don’t expect a menu. Along with his wife, Evmorfili, Stelios Trilyrakis, the chef, farmer, shepherd, butcher, owner and maître d’, takes care of all that. The daily bounty comes from an organic garden, part of the tavern Trilyrakis took over from his parents in 2004 after years of working as a chef in Chania. Guests are invited to tour the grounds and the nearby apiary as well as the wood stoves and ovens in the kitchen, though the meal rightfully remains the primary attraction. There might be a village salad (horiatiki), farm-baked bread and freshly churned butter, stuffed vegetables cooked in a traditional clay pot, potatoes fried in olive oil for close to an hour, goat sizzling in its own fat and house wine made on-site. In a country known for its cuisine, Ntounias stands apart. — Miguel Morales
D.Z.: This man used to be a chef in Chania and then seemed to think, as I did, that the world of restaurants is just not where it’s at. So he left and founded a little biodynamic farm. He has this plot of land that overlooks a verdant gorge, and he cooks everything on an open fire. You get snails, lamb stew, whatever is in season. It’s not complicated food; it’s never going to be in the Michelin Guide or on the “World’s 50 Best” list. But it’s the closest I’ve tasted to soul food.
T.M.: I love Crete. It’s a very beautiful place and it still has a certain authenticity about it. The roads sometimes dead-end, and when I was there, you needed at least three maps to figure out where you were. It’s a real physical landscape.
D.Z.: The island itself is one of the oldest continually inhabited civilizations in all of Europe. It has a crazy history, and just going there and eating this food, the way that he cooks it, it’s so honest.
Europe is Open Again!
Imagine the Parthenon as your private dream, the majestic columns soaring skyward as you linger over your favorite relief with only a few people nearby. A recent traveler cherished this opportunity and urged people to come before the crowds return.
When the European Union announced it was opening to vaccinated travelers, website traffic jumped with excitement. Travel now before crowds get larger and airline ticket prices rise as some predict. Prices for overseas trips are comparable to before the pandemic, yet there is speculation that rates will rise as demand increases. The opportunity is backed by the flexible airline and hotel refund policies, if there's a need to cancel. Take advantage of this moment.
Two Perfect Greece Vacations
Crafted for Fall 2021, enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of Athens and the Greek Islands, combining remarkable archaeological sites, white washed villages, scrumptious food and great shopping! In Athens - pay tribute to the Acropolis. In Molyvos- stroll through the stone and tiled houses and the narrow alleyways and beautiful lively harbor. In Santorini - enjoy magnificent views and white washed houses perched on narrow cliffs.
Eco Tour of Slovenia
The capitol is a modern metropolis, but with some of the prettiest streets and alleyways of Europe. Slovenia tempers its architectural feats with clean air and natural beauty creating some truly breathtaking settings. Beginning in Ljubljana’s Old Town, with its baroque houses reflecting off the river, then on to Bled, floating serenely in the centre of the region’s greatest lake. Music, folk dance, gorges, mountains, beaches, caves, wineries, for a getaway of nature vs culture, Slovenia is the place to be.
Want to Go to Europe This Summer? Here Are Your Options
By Ceylon Yeginsu - March 27, 2020
For American travelers hoping to head abroad, answers to questions about which countries they can visit and what the future might hold. (edited for brevity)
Most of Europe has been off-limits to most U.S. citizens for over a year, …But some European countries have started to welcome vaccinated travelers, including American tourists, and others are making preparations to ease restrictions in time for the summer season.
Vaccine and health certificates that would help speed travel are under development, which could make it easier for tourism to restart. The 27 member countries of the European Union have endorsed the idea of a vaccine certificate.
Greece, one of the most popular European summer destinations for Americans, announced this month that it would reopen for all tourists in mid-May, as long as they show proof of vaccination, antibodies or a negative Covid-19 test result before traveling. All visitors will be subject to random testing upon arrival.
This is the first time we have read of a concrete date when Greece will re-open, so we are thrilled.
We will continue keeping in touch with developments for you and let us know if you have any questions or concerns.
BLACK LIVES MATTER
Lets not lose the momentum — this is too important an opportunity. Racial injustice is building for the Black Lives Matter movement. It has taken so long to get this far — and it's horrible that George Floyd’s murder had to happen to open so many oblivious eyes. But at least they opened — for awhile…
The white supremacy movement has no place in our culture, and must be rejected by all our leaders and fellow citizens. Let your voice be heard.
Fear of Flying
If, like me, you can’t wait to start traveling again, you are scouring the news for indications that its both safe and possible.
Our own straw poll indicates that what frightens travelers the most is the idea of boarding a flight.
But according to the International Air Transport Association (IATA) The risk of COVID-19 on Sept. 21 transmission on an aircraft is low.
Although presently flights are down 72% from last year at this time, there have been millions of flights since the start of the COVID-19 outbreak. And there are very few reported incidents where onboard transmission is suspected. IATA believes that the data is telling us that the risk of onboard transmission of the virus is low when compared with other public indoor environments, such as trains, buses, restaurants and workplaces. There are published examples which indicate a much higher risk in these environments. Aircraft benefit from very high air exchange rates and HEPA filters which filter more than 99.99% of all particles including viruses.
Face masks and face coverings are now required during flights and other environments where social distancing is not possible. If you refuse to fly without wearing a face mask, you're going to be added to a no fly list. There are exceptions if you have a medical condition or the passenger may briefly remove the mask while they are eating or drinking.
While the risk of transmission on an aircraft is low, passengers can take additional precautions to further lower the risk. Following guidance to wear a mask or face covering provides significant protection to all onboard. Passengers are also encouraged to practice good hand hygiene – washing hands regularly with soap or an alcohol-based hand sanitizer, and avoiding touching the eyes, nose or mouth, especially after contact with commonly touched surfaces.
International Air Transport Association continues to keep an open mind and a close watch on emerging data and medical literature.
Chris McGinnis, Travel Editor SF Chronicle argues : “…according to a new study that finds the odds of catching COVID-19 on a flight are actually pretty low. The study shows that passengers have 1 in 4,300 chance of catching the coronavirus on a full, two-hour flight. If the airline leaves the middle seat open, your chances of contracting the bug are nearly cut in half, to 1 in 7,700. And the chances of dying from COVID-19 contracted on a flight are between 1 in 400,000 and 1 in 600,000 depending on your age and other risk factors. That's according to Arnold Barnett, a professor at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, who has been trying to quantify the odds of catching COVID-19 while flying.”
Where to find cheap tickets
Our current favorite site for finding the best prices and flight times is skyscanner.com. Because of the downturn, 2021 flights are currently running about $100. less than in 2020.
Where to find an Agent
When our trips for 2020 were all postponed, victims of Covid 19, we were delighted that we were ticketed by Michelle at Scandia Travel www.scandiatravelsfo.com. Instead of having to pester 6 different airlines for refunds ourselves, she went to battle for us. Travel agents provide wonderful service for little reward. Make use of them.
What about you?
How likely are you to take a commercial flight between now and the end of the year? Tell us: danu@earthlink.net
MY STORY: Sang Ayu Nyoman
Ayu was born in 1978 to a close but impoverished sharecropper family in a village close to Ubud Bali. When she was 5, all village children were summoned to the community hall for injections against the polio virus. In a tragic fluke, the injection infected several of the children, including Ayu and her older sister instead. Ayu’s body weakened and she started collapsing on her walks to school. Her father tried to carry her, but his work consumed most of his time. The falls became frequent, and the family was concerned she might get hit by a car. Sadly, she was forced to drop out.
Increasingly weakened, she finally could not stand at all, spending every day on the floor with her sister, becoming weaker, quieter and more depressed. Wheelchairs were difficult to come by and unaffordable. There were no government services for disabled people.
In the year 2000 her life changed in meeting Begonia, a Spanish expat who started an aid foundation for Bali’s disabled. Ayu was crippled by shyness and self-doubt, and had to be coaxed from her room when Begonia visited the family home, and promised to secure a wheel-chair. Although it took a few years, it finally came to pass, and through the foundation Ayu met others like herself, but with strong self-esteem, and Ayu imagined hope for a better life.
The next year another expat arranged for a car and driver to take Ayu, her sister and two other Balinese disabled women on a field trip to a famous temple in the mountains of Bali. Arriving at their destination, their driver coaxed them to disembark and the group sat together under a tree as the crowds moved past them.
Unfortunately some of the local people cynically asked the group if they were begging. Humiliated and weeping, the group drove home and Ayu vowed not to go out again. Fortunately she did and slowly her shyness disappeared, and she felt strong, supported, loved.
Her friend Putu wanted to create an educational and social foundation for disabled Balinese adults (Senang Hati) encouraging Ayu to be part of the team. With help and encouragement of a sponsor she attended computer school, learning the fundamentals of fundraising.
“After joining Senang Hati, I experienced a drastic change. It seemed all of the struggles—the shyness, shame,and weakness, disappeared, replaced by feelings of high self-esteem, and happiness. I could be with friends in the same situation as myself, sharing stories, experiences, and knowledge. I learned many things, and I found myself—my life again. I understand my limitations, but felt I had something to give. At Senang Hati I wanted to contribute my newfound knowledge, to work in the office, to handle to guests, etc.,whatever is needed to improve myself and the organization—and learn to be self-sufficient. I feel strong and confident, happy and proud, because I have something to share and help the foundation. And the most important thing: I feel useful despite my limitations.” For the next 14 years Ayu worked for the foundation as the Secretary.
In 2014 the organisation split into two groups, and Ayu continues as the secretary of the original. She reaches out for any opportunity that comes her way, and was able to learn scuba diving, dancing, performing, and many other skills. This last summer for one month, AyuI was invited by the American Consulate to attend IVLP, International Visitor Leadership Program, Economic Empowerment for People with Disabilities in Washing ton DC, USA. Unfortunately because of the pandemic, the program has been postponed.
Ays says her dream is to have a wheelchair accessible home and a small printing business with photocopy machine, and “I’d love to invite my disabled friends to work there too. Ultimately I’d love to be a Notary.”
Ayu, now 42 is currently finishing adult education classes to achieve her high school equivalency diploma—prior to this she won middle school certification with the financial help of generous people who have traveled with us.
Sang Ayu Nyoman
The First Book on Balinese Healers in English
In 1999, Cal Stanny came to Bali as a member of a Healing Arts tour Made Surya led for the Institute of Noetic Sciences. A year and a half later, he was inspired to return, and study with one of Bali’s distinguished healers with the assistance and translation of Surya. That healer is Cokorda Rai, an astonishingly gifted practitioner who many of you who have traveled with us have consulted. Cal returned every year thereafter, and after a decade, felt compelled to begin notating Cokorda’s practices in order to share his knowledge with other English speaking people. The result: “A Balinese Self-Healing System” has just been publish (in Bali) after 15 years of research. So far it does not have a distributor in the USA or Australia, but we do have a limited number that are available for purchase ($29.30 includes shipping) in the US. Contact us if you are interested in having a copy: danu@earthlink.net